When I set out on this journey, I knew it was inevitable that culture shock would hit me sooner or later. I think that my last summers experience in prepared me thoroughly, but it is impossible to ignore and be unmoved by the intense changes in the way life will be for the next month.
This afternoon, though a bit tired from my travels, toured through parts of Phnom Penh, both on foot and by Tuk Tuk. I met an American, Aora, in her mid twenties, who guided me through the streets of the city. First, she wanted to "show me something." We set out of the air conditioned Lutheran Church Office, onto the trash covered streets. The humidity took over, as I assumed it would, and my clothes immediately felt damp; as if i had run a 5k in the middle of the summer in the US. We skipped around street venders, ignored male propositions, and nearly grazed passing vehicles and cyclists. The streets are bombarded clothing, food, automotive, and furniture sales. People stare as you walk by, wave, smile, etc. Buses and motorcycles spew exhaust into your face. Chickens and dogs scramble for food all around your feet. What a rush! Ten minutes of walking brought us to a large, fenced in community of old buildings. I was unsure of what it was until I read the large banner above that read:
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum.
"I think this is important for people to see. Haunting, but important." Aora escorted me through the gates and payed our tourist fees. She had brought me to one of the main site set ups during the Khmer Rouge. If you are unsure of what the Khmer Rouge is, here is a brief synopsis. Pol Plot tricked many Cambodians into thinking he was bringing peace, they even celebrated his entry into the country with a parade. Unfortunately, the afternoon he entered, everything turned upside down. He told everyone to leave the country. Through the Khmer Rouge, he captured millions of people. He set rules that people were to follow, including: no talking, no smiling, certain haircuts, only the uniform he assigned to them, no crying, and many more. If they broke those rules, he had them killed. Men, women, children, and infants were brought to "cites" such as the one i was now standing in, to be interrogate, tortured, and executed. There were thousands of others sent to another place in Phnom Penh, called "The killing field" (where I also visited today).
So as I stood in the courtyard of a devestating community of torture chambers, holding rooms, and cells, I felt sick. I asked questions. I walked into room, after room, after room; where men women, and children were kept. At one point i walked into the cell where a prisoner would have been held. I stood at the bar window, the chain tickling the side of my foot. I peered through the bars, outside at the courtyard, where they were bound to watch and listen to the torture of others; friends, family, or even complete strangers. Human. From there, we took a Tuk Tuk to the killing field where, not only is there a large glass building full of bones of victims, but fields and fields of graves. Aora and I walked through the fields haunted by the thoughts of what had happened here. I coouldn't help to notice the bones, still lying on the ground, or the items of clothes that half stuck out of the dirt, trying to escape, or the teeth either. It was if even the ground was repulsed by this mass genocide of over three million people. The ground even, with the rain, told the story. What a moving experience.
ON ANOTHER NOTE!!
Driving in the Tuk Tuk is pretty fun :)
It's an open walled vehicle, so you can see everything around you, and everything around you can see you too!!!
It was amazing to see all that goes on during the day. Sowing, welding, lots of driving, heavy lifting, and a LOT of sweat shops. It wasn't until about 5 in the evening that I saw many women, because most were in the sweat shops during the day.
I also saw some pretty cool cultural surprises I wasn't expecting! We drove past a wedding party, and Aora told me that many families actually go BANKRUPT because they spend so much money on the party! It looked elegant, but it wasn't until she told me that I would have believed it to be so detailed! Over 36 dishes served! Over 8 garments must be worn! It's crazy!
Also, while driving down the scurrying streets, I saw a HAMMOCK set up and hanging from the bottom of a TRUCK.....there was somebody in it!
Oh and one more thing. Don't buy the yellow soda bottles on the side of the road if your thirsty....it;s definitely gasoline.
Well, that is all for now! I am going to go enjoy more DELICIOUS Cambodian fruits and dishes with the wonderful Lo family!
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